Trail 5, Svendborg

This text is an excerpt from the book about the Archipelago Trail, and therefore offers more background, detail and inspiration than the shorter trail leaflets.

The stage leads you from Fjællebroen (a small harbour hamlet) along the south coast of Funen, through Syltemade Ådal (the Syltemade river valley) and on to Vester Skerninge. Some stretches—especially Syltemade Ådal—are so wet that boots are recommended.

Rødkilde

Fjællebroen was established by the manor Rødkilde, located two kilometres to the northeast, so it deserves a few words.

The name comes from the iron‑rich, reddish soil. Rødkilde is first mentioned in 1314, when its owner was declared an outlaw—perhaps for joining the rebellion against King Erik Menved, as happened to the owner of Finstrupgård near Diernæs.

Later, the powerful Hvide family owned Rødkilde. In 1733, Johan Lehn of Hvidkilde Manor purchased the estate. His steward, Jens Lange, bought Rødkilde in 1739. Lange built Fjællebroen and introduced the highly efficient five‑field crop rotation system on Funen.

He reorganised the village of Ulbølle, established a brickworks, set up a factory producing starch and powder, and built several small ships. He was notoriously harsh towards his tenant farmers and became known as “Evil Jens Lange of Rødkilde.”

Strandeng – the coastal meadow

South of Fjællebroen, small coastal meadows appear, where salt‑tolerant plants such as sea aster and mugwort thrive.

Strandhuse

Just inland from the meadows lies Strandhuse, once home to fishermen and smallholders. Until 1868—before the dam was built—locals provided ferry service to Nakkebølle.

Tangtransport – drifting seaweed

In the shallow water, various algae grow—what we commonly call seaweed. Seaweed attaches to stones using a holdfast rather than roots, and dried tufts often wash ashore.

If a flint axe lies on the seabed, seaweed may attach to it. Once the seaweed grows large enough, it can lift the axe head and eventually wash it ashore—a glimpse into a submerged past.

Sogneskel – the parish boundary

South of Ringstedhus, a small stream runs into the archipelago. It once formed the parish boundary between Ulbølle and Vester Skerninge.

Præstens Skov

Præstens Skov (“the Vicar’s Forest”) is a small protected coppice woodland owned by the parish council. It is rich in old trees and hazel, and in early summer the forest floor is covered with wild garlic. Down by the shore is a sheltered “coffee spot” with a fine view.

Ballen

From Præstens Skov you can look east over the outlet of Syltemade Å to Ballen, a small coastal hamlet.

On the seabed below lies the wreck of the ferry M/F Ærøsund, intentionally sunk in 2014 and now forming an artificial reef for divers.

Syltemae Camping

Syltemae Camping is located east of Præstens Skov.

Syltemade Ådal

Syltemade Ådal was formed at the end of the last Ice Age. To the north lies the tunnel valley system: Ollerup Lake – Nielstrup Lake – Hvidkilde Lake – Sørup Lake.

Part of the meltwater forced its way southward, carving out the deep ravine that is now Syltemade Ådal.

The name means “low and wet”—and it fits. Wooden boardwalks cover the wettest sections, but boots are recommended. The valley feels wild, varied and almost remote.

Scottish Highland cattle graze here year‑round, maintaining the landscape.

Grey herons often stand motionless along the stream—sometimes so close that both you and the bird are startled when it takes off.

A leaflet about Syltemade Ådal is available at Svendborg Tourist Office and at the parking area.

Vester Skerninge

Vester Skerninge is a village on the road between Svendborg and Faaborg. The trail runs east of the village, so you must make a short detour if you wish to visit.

Vester Skerninge Church

Vester Skerninge Church is a classic whitewashed village church with many details and stories.

The nave is built of fieldstone in Romanesque style (1000–1250). The porch, built of monk bricks, dates from 1450–1550 and was used by the men.

The altarpiece was painted in 1817 by the Danish Golden Age painter C.W. Eckersberg.

A wooden crucifix from the early 1400s hangs on the chancel arch, originally from Ulbølle Church. The hollow head is closed with a wooden plug—perhaps once a hiding place for relics.

Vester Skerninge Kro – the inn and its history

Vester Skerninge Inn was founded as a coaching inn in 1791 and granted royal privileges in 1801. It lies along the old main road, now called Krovej.

Royally licensed inns were allowed to distil spirits, brew beer and bake bread, but local townspeople were not allowed inside before 1912.

The inn’s current appearance dates from 1806, and today it is a well‑regarded dining place.